H&M, one of the world's fashion industry giants, recently announced their plans to use artificial intelligence (AI)-based models in their marketing campaigns. The move aims to create "digital twins" of human models that will be used in various promotional content. However, this announcement has sparked heated debate among fashion industry workers, activists, and the general public. This article will discuss the details of H&M's plans, the reasons behind the move, and the impact it will have on the fashion industry and its workers.
What is H&M planning?
H&M revealed that it plans to create 30 “digital twins” of human models throughout this year. The digital twins will be used in various marketing campaigns, including social media posts and digital advertisements. According to H&M, the human models will retain the rights to their digital twins and will receive compensation each time their digital avatars are used, similar to the payment system for regular photo shoots.
The move, according to H&M, is part of their exploration into using new technologies to present fashion in a more creative way. Jorgen Andersson, H&M’s Chief Creative Officer, stated that the company wanted to “embrace the benefits of new technologies while staying true to our commitment to personal style.”
The Reason Behind This Move
There are several reasons why H&M decided to use an AI-based model:
- Cost Efficiency
By using a digital model, H&M can reduce production costs that usually involve photographers, makeup artists, and other crew. This process also allows the company to speed up the creation of marketing content. - Technology Innovation
As one of the world's largest fashion brands, H&M wants to lead the way in adopting new technologies. The use of AI is seen as an innovative move that can provide a competitive advantage in an increasingly digital market. - Creative Flexibility
The AI-based model allows H&M to create more flexible and adaptable campaigns to market needs. Digital avatars can be easily modified to reflect different styles and fashion trends.
The Controversy That Emerged
While this move may seem innovative, many have criticized H&M's plans. Here are some of the main issues that have come under scrutiny:
- Impact on Fashion Industry Workers
The use of AI-based models could threaten the jobs of many workers in the fashion industry, including models, photographers, makeup artists, and other production crews. Sara Ziff, founder of the Model Alliance organization, said this move could replace many creative workers in the fashion community. - Rights and Compensation Issues
While H&M has promised to compensate human models for the use of their digital twins, many have questioned how the system will be implemented fairly. There are concerns that models may not have full control over how their digital avatars are used. - Losing the Human Touch
Some critics argue that the use of AI-based models could reduce the authenticity and emotional appeal of marketing campaigns. They worry that fully digital content will lose the human element that makes it more relatable to consumers. - Ethics of AI Use
The move has also sparked discussion about the ethics of using AI in the creative industries. Paul W. Fleming, General Secretary of the UK Arts and Entertainment Workers Union, stressed that innovation in AI should not be an excuse to reduce workers’ rights or increase profits at the expense of human labor.
Reaction from the Fashion Industry
H&M's announcement has drawn mixed reactions in the fashion industry. Some have praised the move as a necessary innovation to meet the challenges of the digital age. But many have criticized the move as a form of technological exploitation that could harm workers.
H&M isn’t the first brand to experiment with the technology. In 2023, Levi Strauss & Co. announced plans to use AI-powered models to complement human models in its campaigns. But after receiving heavy criticism, Levi’s said it would not cut back on photoshoots with real models. Similarly, Spanish fashion brand Mango launched an entirely AI-generated campaign for its youthful clothing collection.
Long Term Impact
H&M’s use of AI-based models could have a long-term impact on the fashion industry. On the one hand, it could drive innovation and efficiency in marketing content production. On the other hand, it could also exacerbate job instability in an industry already facing major challenges.
Additionally, this move could spark a broader discussion about the role of technology in the creative industries. How can we ensure that technology is used to support, not replace, human workers? How can we create a fair and ethical system for using AI?
Conclusion
H&M’s plan to use an AI-based model is an ambitious and controversial move. While it offers great potential for innovation, there are many ethical and social issues to consider. The fashion industry must find a way to harness new technologies without compromising the rights and well-being of human workers.
Will this move be the beginning of a new era in the fashion industry or will it just spark more controversy? Only time will tell. But one thing is for sure, the discussion about the use of AI in the creative industry is just beginning. 
